Cartagena Spain

Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2011

During the 16th and the 17th centuries, when Spain held sway over the rest of Euope and the New World, much of its naval power was projected from the port of Catagena. Many of the coastal fortifications from the era still exist, although instead of guarding the city, they provide splendid views of the harbor.

A Day in Madrid

Posted on Saturday, June 18, 2011

Madrid is one of the great capitals of Europe that is a must see.  It may lack the glitz of Barcelona or the popularity Seville, but it has plenty of romance of its own.  It's the home to Spanish Kings and Queens.  It has a great medieval center to explore.  Its museums are among the greatest in the world, and it has plenty of tapas bars and nightclubs.

Let's start in the Puerto del Sol.  This is one of Madrid's most important squares.  It's a great central location to start from.  In fact it's the point in Spain from which all distances are measured.  There are many hotels in the vicinity.  You can catch the subway here or just walk to the main sights.  It's centrally located between the Plaza Mayor and the Royal Palace in one direction and the museums in the other direction.

First head for the Plaza Mayor, the original town square, and a great place to start exploring old town Madrid.  It is completely enclosed with 5 story burgundy buildings.  The restaurants and tapas bars that line the lower story charge tourist prices, but it might be worth the price to order tapas in the Plaza Mayor.... that will give you a chance to sit and soak in the ambiance.

Continue on down the Calle Mayor, and take a tour of the Royal Palace.  Many guides gloss over the Royal Palace, but it's a great palace to see.  An hour or so will have you winding through extravagantly decorated rooms.  It is the official residence of the King of Spain, though the family usually stays at a smaller palace on the outskirts of town.  Be forewarned... if there is a "state occasion", as in if the King gives a dinner the night before, the palace may open late or even be closed! 

The Almudena Cathedral is across from the Royal Palace.  Near the Royal Palace, on the east side, is the Plaza de Oriente with the restaurants where you can stop for lunch.  A nearby subway stop lets you get to the museum area.

There are three museums to see.  The Prado is the most famous.  It's one of the greatest painting museums in the world.  In the Reina Sofia Museum you will find impressionist and modern art... most notably Picasso's Guernica.  Finally you must see the Thyssen-Bornemisza with a full range of art from 13th century to today.  Consider a museum card which will get you into all three for less than you would pay if you paid admission to each one separately.

In the afternoon, relax in Retiro Park.  It is close behind the museums.  Just inside the park, there is a large artificial lake with outdoor snack shops.  You can buy a tapas size plate of Seranno Ham, have a beer or a glass of wine and watch the locals pass by in "el paseo", a leisurely stroll around the lake.

Tapas bars are a part of Madrid's nightlife....  Order a glass of wine and a few tapas and enjoy.  "Raciones" are larger portions, tapas are smaller snacks.  Sometimes in the tourist areas, you can order a menu of tapas and get a sample of maybe 5 to share.  You won't REALLY be participating in the tapas bar scene, but it's one way to get your feet wet.  Tapas might become your dinner unless you are into eating late at night like Madrienos are.

After the first night, you'll get comfortable with tapas, and after your first day, you'll be glad you visited Madrid.

Santiago de Compostela Spain

Posted on Sunday, February 06, 2011

As a ship’s captain who has spent more than 40 years at sea, it’s not surprising that I’m often asked about my favorite place to visit.

But where do I start when so many wonderful experiences come to my mind?  My favourites include the Scottish highlands and islands, the beautiful Norwegian Fjords and Hawaiian island of Maui.  Other places have a family connection such as Venice, where I’ve stood in St. Mark’s square and thought of my father victory-rolling his Spitfire Mk 9 over the campanile in 1945. Or the Crimea, where I gazed out at the fields which were the scene of the Charge of the Light Brigade, where an ancestor died in the great siege of Sebastopol in 1855. The Mediterranean island of Malta, my home during my teen years, also has a special place in my heart.

However, throughout the world one of the places that means the most to me is both historic and inspirational.    It’s Santiago de Compostela, one of the most sacred places in the Christian world after Rome and Jerusalem.

Perhaps for me, this Spanish city resonates because it’s believed to be the final resting place of St. James – one of the 12 apostles of Jesus.  As such it’s become a site of an incredible pilgrimage, with more than 100,000 people making their way there each year.

While not exactly a pilgrimage, my visit to Santiago (which translates to “St. James”) was one where I felt a strong connection to two important people in my life – my maternal grandfather and my son – both named James. 

My journey started from the picturesque port of Vigo, a vast natural harbor protected from the Atlantic by the Cies Islands.  It’s not far from Cape Finisterre which in ancient times, for those living on the eastern shores of the Atlantic, was the edge of the known world with only mysteries beyond its shores.

The silver coffer holding the remains of St. James

Santiago de Compostela is the capital of the beautiful region of Galicia in the northwest corner of Spain.  It’s a unique place – and even has its own language – Galician, or Galago, similar to Portuguese.

The main attraction in town is the magnificent cathedral built nearly a thousand years ago over the shrine which is said to contain St. James’ holy remains.   He was martyred in Jerusalem but spent a great deal of time preaching in Spain, so according to legend his body was brought to this place after his death. In the ninth century what are thought to be his remains were discovered, and ever since it’s become a place of pilgrimage.

The tens of thousands of pilgrims who come here every year journey from all over Europe, many traveling overland by foot and spending weeks on the road.  The most notable route, the Way of St. James, starts in France and runs for about 500 miles.  Pilgrims have been making the often arduous journey for more than 1,000 years.  Not everyone walks solely for religious reasons. For many it’s an adventure through a foreign landscape and a unique opportunity to meet people.

The cathedral is set in the grand Plaza del Obradoiro

Santiago de Compostela is probably the only UNESCO World Heritage Site where the road to it also carries this special designation.  The famous route across France and into Spain is not just a physical voyage but a spiritual journey where routine life can be put on hold — and will probably never be the same again.

I, instead, came to Santiago de Compostela while my Princess ship was docked at Vigo, about 60 miles to the south.  The drive north though the countryside was nonetheless a time of quiet contemplation about this special site I was about to visit.  One day, however, I would love to walk part of the Way of St. James.

No matter how you get there, an intense ambiance surrounds this place of pilgrimage. Some cathedrals are quiet, somber places, but in Santiago, the cathedral resonates with energy and enthusiasm, the culmination of days and, for some, weeks of exertion, anticipation and fulfillment.  Once they reach this cathedral, pilgrims receive a “compostela,” a certificate that recognizes their achievement.

The cathedral has been added to over the years, and today is a beautiful Romanesque building with an ornate Baroque façade with two bell towers.  Inside, the remains of St. James lie beneath the high altar in a silver coffer.  Grooves have been worn in some of the cathedral’s pillars from the millions of pilgrim hands that have touched them over the centuries.

On special days a mass is held for the pilgrims when a massive incense burner called the Botafumeiro is swung from pulleys on a long rope trailing clouds of smoke above the crowds while they sing the Hymn to Christ.  I’d say it’s one of the world’s most amazing experiences.

Swinging the Botafumeiro

The cathedral is situated in the grand Plaza del Obradoiro, surrounded by historic structures.  Across the plaza is an exquisite hotel, the beautiful, ancient Hostal dos Reis Catolicos.  It was originally the site of a hostel to house pilgrims, and today is a five-star parador that’s considered one of the oldest hotels in the world.

A mass of cobbled, narrow, winding streets lead away from the main plaza with a whole variety of little restaurants tucked in among them.  It’s traditional to try several, so of course I did, and the food is superb.  Among the food we enjoyed were seafood from the chilly Atlantic waters, Serrano ham, cheeses, and caracoles (snails), all served with the delicious local wine, Albarino. It’s also customary to leave a small coin in gaps in the stone walls for good luck.

The many lovely little shops in the area mainly sell a selection of silver jewelry and artifacts.  Since the scalloped shell has become the symbol of St. James, it’s the traditional souvenir for a pilgrim and there are many silver versions for sale. The shell has taken on a number of special meanings, including serving as a symbol of the journey — the way the shell’s grooves meet at a single point represents the various routes the pilgrims have travelled to the cathedral.

No matter where I went in the town, I felt the spirit of St. James everywhere.  One of Jesus’ first disciples, he would become a key figure in the Christian world.  As I wandered the streets I thought about his deep faith, his commitment to principles, and how he had been a teacher to many.   I couldn’t help but feel the connection to my grandfather, James, about whom I can say these same things.  But through this ancient place I especially thought about my son, James, the continuity of the generations and my hope for the future.

Written by Nick Carlton
Captain, Sapphire Princess
Princess Cruise Line

Spain Tours

Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010

We’ve seen the opera Carmen and, perhaps, some movies that featured the dance…but oh, to see it being performed by real, live Spaniards!!  Beautiful women, raven-black hair pulled tightly back, slender  handsome men in short jackets and tapered trousers. That’s an experience that will have you shouting “Ole !” even before the last strums of  the guitar or click of the castanet.

So, you’re going to be in Spain and know you’re going to see a Flamenco show as part of your tour activity or perhaps you’ve heard of Flamenco Tablaos (Flamenco bars) where more-or-less authentic shows are held, and you’re determined to attend one evening.  Don’t hesitate!  This is an experience that fairly demands  your attendance.

Don’t even think about being of missing the opportunity, especially if you’re in the Andalusia region (i.e. Seville),   The cost will be minimal as compared to the thrill and the memories (not to dismiss the pictures you may be able to take).  But take care:  Flamenco has been around for centuries and has become a highly packaged tourist attraction, best to consult the concierge at your hotel or your tour director.  Realize that these recommendations may be tinged with a little “baksheesh”, but they will be safe and entertaining.  Perhaps you should consult the Internet and read the reviews – there are plenty – about various venues.

Understanding the history of an event adds to your enjoyment, so here goes:  legend has us believing that the Gypsies of Spain originated the steps and music, but we must go back to Moorish times to find the roots.  The Moors occupied the Iberian peninsula for over seven centuries, accounting for the traces of Arab, as well as Jewish and Christian influences. 

Andalusia is considered to be the birthplace, but it wasn’t until the 18th century is there any reference to the dance by name. The historic accompaniment was hand clapping (the castanets were added many years later to simulate the sound), but now we appreciate the wonderful addition of guitars.

In the region around Cadiz, flamenco schools were created, leading to what is considered the “golden age” of flamenco, with cafes and restaurants featuring brilliant practitioners of the art. The passion and seductiveness of the fantastic costumes is Andalusian and the posturing can be traced to the stance and attitudes of the dashing matadors of the bull ring.

Shops and souvenir vendors will have castanets to sell and beautiful dolls in polka dot dresses…or, if you want to really stand out when you get back to your hometown, you will find merchants selling those polka dot or flaming red dresses with fabulous embroidered shawls.

A wonderful enlightening flamenco museum is in Madrid, but nothing will haunt your memory like that night you saw and heard authentic flamenco in Spain!

Spain Travel: Tapas! Authentic Spanish Cuisine

Posted on Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Tapas are canapes served day in & day out in every bar & cafe in Spain. They can be served cold or warm. You can have them as appetizers, or combine them for a full meal. Popular items for tapas are cheese, omlettes, ham, sausage, meatballs, seafood, veggies & bread.

Tapas is a tradition that is believed to have begun in the 19th century in Andalusia, where single slices of cheese or ham were used to "cover" glasses of sherry to deter flies (Spanish verb Tapar means to cover). After finishing their drink people would eat the ham or cheese. Tapas are so much a part of the culture & social scene in Spain, that they invented the verb tapear which means to go & eat tapas!

Want to experience authentic tapas in Spain? Take a look at our wonderful selection of Spain tours.